Dashi

Dashi is the clear Japanese stock that gives miso soup, udon broth, oden and nikujaga their savory depth without tasting fishy or heavy. The classic version steeps kombu (dried kelp) and katsuobushi (smoked, dried bonito flakes) in water for about 10 minutes; kombu alone makes a vegan dashi, and dried shiitake adds another layer. Korean cooking uses the same idea with myeolchi (dried anchovies) and kelp (dasima) for the stock under kimchi jjigae, tteokguk and soft tofu stew. Instant dashi granules and dashi packs are the everyday shortcut in most Japanese homes.

How to buy

Look in the Japanese or Korean section of an Asian market (H Mart, Mitsuwa, 99 Ranch) or online. Good kombu is thick, dark and dusted with white powder (natural umami, not mold); Hidaka is the affordable everyday grade, Rishiri and Ma-kombu are pricier and cleaner-tasting. Buy bonito flakes in a large soft bag, not the tiny topping packets, and dried anchovies labeled "for stock", which are larger than the snacking kind. Kayanoya dashi packs are excellent; Ajinomoto Hondashi granules are cheap and reliable but contain MSG and salt.

How to store

Kombu and dried anchovies keep for a year or more in a sealed bag or jar in a cool, dark cupboard; freeze anchovies if your kitchen is warm, since their oils go rancid and smell sharp. Bonito flakes lose their aroma fast once opened, so squeeze out the air, clip the bag and use within a month, or freeze. Homemade dashi lasts 3 days in the fridge or 3 months frozen in ice-cube trays.

Substitutes

• Instant dashi granules, 1 teaspoon per 2 cups water — nearly identical results, saltier and slightly less fragrant.
• Light chicken or vegetable stock diluted 1:1 with water, plus a splash of soy sauce — gives body but no seafood note.
• Dried shiitake soaked in warm water for 30 minutes — earthy vegan umami, use the soaking liquid 1:1 for dashi.
• Water with 1/2 teaspoon fish sauce per cup — a rough stand-in for anchovy stock in Korean stews.

How to use

Never boil kombu hard, or the stock turns slimy and bitter: heat it gently, pull it out just before the water boils, then add bonito flakes, wait 1 minute off the heat and strain. For Korean anchovy stock, snap the heads and black guts off 10–15 anchovies, toast them dry in the pot for a minute, then simmer with a palm-sized piece of kelp for 10 minutes. Use about 2 cups dashi per 2 servings of miso soup, and save the spent kombu to slice into salads or simmer with soy sauce as a side.