Japchae (Korean Stir-Fried Glass Noodles with Beef and Vegetables)

Japchae (잡채) is the Korean dish of sweet potato glass noodles stir-fried with thin strips of beef and a rainbow of vegetables, all tossed in a sweet-savory soy and sesame dressing. It shows up at every holiday table, birthday and Chuseok harvest gathering in Korea, and early autumn, when spinach, carrots and fresh shiitake are at their best, is exactly the right time to make a big platter. It is just as good warm as at room temperature, which makes it a rare party dish that does not need last-minute attention.

Three things make this version work. First, every vegetable is cooked on its own for just a minute or two, so the carrot stays crisp, the spinach stays green and the onion turns sweet instead of everything steaming into one soft heap. Second, the noodles are boiled until chewy, then briefly stir-fried with part of the dressing so they absorb the soy and sugar rather than sitting in a puddle. Third, the beef gets a short marinade of soy, sugar, garlic and sesame oil, which is all it needs to taste like proper bulgogi in the finished dish.

Ingredients

For the beef

• 200 g (7 oz) beef sirloin or flank steak, cut into thin 5 mm (1/4-inch) strips
• 1 tablespoon soy sauce
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 1 teaspoon minced garlic
• 1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil, plus a pinch of black pepper

For the noodles and vegetables

• 250 g (9 oz) dried sweet potato glass noodles (dangmyeon)
• 200 g (7 oz) spinach, roots trimmed
• 1 medium carrot, about 100 g (3.5 oz), cut into thin matchsticks
• 1 medium onion, about 150 g (5 oz), thinly sliced
• 6 fresh shiitake mushrooms, about 100 g (3.5 oz), stems removed and thinly sliced
• 4 scallions, cut into 5 cm (2-inch) lengths
• 2 eggs
• 3 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided
• 1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds
• Salt

For the dressing

• 4 tablespoons soy sauce
• 2 tablespoons sugar
• 2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
• 2 garlic cloves, finely minced
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

1. Put the glass noodles in a large bowl, cover with warm water and soak for 20 to 30 minutes while you prepare everything else. In a small bowl, combine the beef strips with the soy sauce, sugar, garlic, sesame oil and black pepper and set aside to marinate.
2. Stir together all the dressing ingredients in a small bowl until the sugar dissolves. Set out one large mixing bowl; every cooked component will go into it as it is finished.
3. Beat the eggs with a pinch of salt. Heat 1/2 tablespoon of oil in a non-stick skillet over medium-low heat, pour in the eggs and cook into a thin omelette, about 2 minutes per side, without browning. Slide it onto a board, roll it up and slice into thin strips. Add to the mixing bowl.
4. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Blanch the spinach for 30 seconds, until just wilted, then scoop it into cold water, squeeze dry and cut roughly in half. Season with a pinch of salt and 1 teaspoon of sesame oil taken from the dressing, then add to the bowl. Keep the pot of water boiling for the noodles.
5. Wipe the skillet, add 1/2 tablespoon of oil and cook the onion over medium-high heat with a pinch of salt for 2 to 3 minutes, until soft and translucent but not browned. Transfer to the bowl. Cook the carrot the same way for 2 minutes until just tender, then the shiitake for 3 minutes until their edges brown, then the scallions for 30 seconds. Add each vegetable to the bowl as it is done, using a little oil each time.
6. Raise the heat to high, add 1/2 tablespoon of oil and stir-fry the marinated beef for 2 to 3 minutes, until it is browned at the edges and the liquid has cooked away. Add to the bowl.
7. Drain the soaked noodles and boil them for 5 to 6 minutes, until translucent and chewy with no hard core. Drain, rinse very briefly under cold water and snip a few times with kitchen scissors so they are easier to eat. Toss immediately with 2 tablespoons of the dressing.
8. Heat the last 1/2 tablespoon of oil in the skillet over medium heat, add the noodles and the remaining dressing and stir-fry for 2 minutes, until the noodles have absorbed the sauce and look glossy and evenly brown.
9. Tip the hot noodles into the mixing bowl with the beef, egg and vegetables. Toss thoroughly with tongs or clean hands so the strands separate and everything is evenly distributed. Taste and add a splash more soy sauce or a pinch of sugar if needed. Sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds and serve warm or at room temperature.

Tips

• Substitutions: pork shoulder or boneless chicken thigh works in place of beef, and for a vegetarian japchae simply double the shiitake or add 150 g (5 oz) of pan-fried firm tofu strips. Dried shiitake, soaked for 30 minutes, are a fine stand-in for fresh and add even more flavor.
• Do not skip cooking the vegetables separately. It feels fussy, but it takes only 10 minutes total in one pan, and it is the reason restaurant japchae looks so colorful and tastes so clean.
• Glass noodles keep absorbing sauce as they sit, so if the dish tastes perfectly seasoned in the pan, it will taste slightly mild an hour later. Season a touch more boldly than you think you need if you are serving it at room temperature.
• Make ahead and storage: japchae keeps in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 3 days. The noodles firm up when cold, so reheat in a skillet with 1 to 2 tablespoons of water over medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes, or microwave covered for 1 to 2 minutes. It does not freeze well; the noodles turn mushy.
• What to serve with it: at a Korean table japchae is a side dish, so pair it with steamed short-grain rice, kimchi and something grilled like bulgogi or spicy pork. It also makes an excellent topping for bibimbap or a filling for lettuce wraps.

Nutrition

Nutrition information is an estimate only: about 430 kcal, 17 g protein, 15 g fat, 58 g carbohydrate per serving.