Turmeric (haldi in Hindi) is the rhizome of a ginger relative, used fresh or dried and ground into the familiar orange-yellow powder. The flavor is earthy, peppery and a little bitter, with a mustard-like edge; fresh root is brighter and more gingery. It colors almost every Indian curry and dal, Thai yellow curry, Vietnamese bánh xèo and cá kho, Moroccan tagines and Persian rice. Its yellow pigment, curcumin, is the subject of many health studies, but the amounts that reach the blood from food are small, so treat it as a spice, not a medicine.

How to buy

Ground turmeric is in every supermarket spice aisle; Indian grocers sell it in 100 g bags for a fraction of the price. Look for a deep, saturated orange-yellow, not pale mustard, and a bag with a recent date, because the aroma fades faster than the color. Fresh turmeric root looks like a small, thin, orange ginger and is sold at Indian, Thai and Vietnamese markets, Whole Foods and many farmers markets; choose firm, smooth pieces. Alleppey and Madras are the two common grades, with Alleppey darker and more aromatic.

How to store

Ground turmeric keeps in a sealed jar in a dark cupboard for about a year before it tastes dusty; light bleaches the color, so avoid clear jars on the counter. Fresh root lasts 2 to 3 weeks in a paper bag in the fridge and up to six months frozen whole; grate it straight from frozen. Wash your hands and board quickly after grating, because the stain sets fast on skin, wood and plastic. Sunlight fades turmeric stains on countertops.

Substitutes

  • Fresh turmeric for ground: 1 tbsp grated fresh per 1 tsp powder. Brighter, more gingery, slightly less bitter.
  • Mild curry powder, 1:1, where turmeric is one of several spices. Adds cumin and coriander notes you did not ask for.
  • Saffron, a tiny pinch steeped in warm water, for color in rice. Different, floral flavor and far more expensive.
  • Annatto (achiote) powder, 1:1, for color only. Gives orange rather than yellow and almost no flavor.

How to use

Add ground turmeric early, with the onions or other ground spices, and fry it in oil for 30 seconds before liquid goes in; this removes the raw, chalky taste and spreads the color. A quarter to half a teaspoon is enough for a curry serving four, and more than a teaspoon turns the dish bitter and medicinal, a common beginner mistake. Grated fresh turmeric can go in a little later or be blended into pastes. A pinch of black pepper alongside is traditional and improves the flavor. Wear an apron.

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