Sumac is the dried, coarsely ground fruit of the Rhus coriaria shrub: a dark burgundy powder that tastes bright, tangy and fruity, like lemon without the juice. It is sprinkled over fattoush, hummus, grilled chicken and kebabs, onions for shawarma and Persian rice, and it makes a beautiful sour crust on roast vegetables. Za'atar is the Levantine blend built on it: dried wild thyme or oregano, toasted sesame seeds, sumac and salt, eaten with olive oil and bread, on labneh, or scattered over roast chicken and flatbreads.

How to buy

Middle Eastern and Turkish grocers sell sumac cheaply in bags; in US and UK supermarkets look for small jars from McCormick, Bart or Schwartz, or buy from spice shops such as Penzeys, Burlap & Barrel or Steenbergs. Good sumac is moist, vivid dark red and clumps slightly; a dry, brownish, dull powder is old. Check the label because many cheap brands add salt (fine, but season accordingly) or citric acid to fake the tang. For za'atar, Lebanese and Palestinian brands usually have more herb and less filler than generic ones.

How to store

Keep sumac in an airtight jar in a dark cupboard, where it stays bright for about a year; because it is slightly moist it can cake, so break it up with a fork rather than adding it to steam. Za'atar loses its herbal aroma faster, within six months, so buy small bags and keep them sealed. Either can be frozen in a zip bag. If the color has turned brown and the sourness is gone, replace it.

Substitutes

  • For sumac: finely grated lemon zest mixed with a pinch of salt, 1:1 by volume. You keep the citrus lift but lose the fruity depth and the red color.
  • For sumac: 1 teaspoon lemon juice or 1/2 teaspoon amchoor (dried mango powder) per teaspoon of sumac. Amchoor is closest in tang; lemon juice adds liquid.
  • For za'atar: mix 2 tablespoons dried thyme, 1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds, 1 tablespoon sumac (or lemon zest) and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Very close to the real thing.

How to use

Sumac is a finishing spice: sprinkle 1 to 2 teaspoons over a salad, grilled meat or rice just before serving, or toss it with sliced red onion and a pinch of salt for a five-minute kebab garnish. Long cooking dulls it, so add it to stews only at the end. Rub sumac mixed with olive oil and salt into chicken or fish before grilling for color and tang. For za'atar, stir 2 tablespoons into 3 tablespoons olive oil and spread on flatbread or brush on chicken; add it in the last few minutes of roasting so the thyme does not scorch.

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